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SAFE HAY STORAGE

hay     Unless you’ve been inundated with rain at all the wrong times for cutting and baling hay, like we’ve been here in northeastern Ohio, you’re probably storing first-cutting hay.  Last year we missed out on a “first” cutting because of rain, and when it was time for second cutting our hay man delivered the first load then his baler broke down.  By the time he got it fixed it was raining again and our hay delivery got pushed back from July to August. The hay finally came on a 90 degree day.  It was such a joy to work all day at the fire station, then come home, change from my fire department uniform to my “hay unloading and stacking” uniform (you know—jeans and long-sleeved shirt so that you don’t get scratched, but just right for bits of hay to become sweat-glued between your body and your shirt). Then, by the time I realized how starving I was, since I hadn’t eaten anything since lunchtime, I was too tired to lift even a plastic fork.    
      However, much as we love our horses and we accept with at least a minimum of enthusiasm the sacrifices we make for their comfort and well-being, let’s take a serious look at hay storage from a fire safety viewpoint.  First, let’s consider where you’re going to stack your newly-delivered hay.
     A separate hay storage building should be constructed if at all possible, but of course, that’s the ideal situation.  You may choose to have upper level hay storage if you are building a barn, or feel you are “stuck with it” if the barn already exists, but there are ways to help make these arrangements less of a hazard.
      Upper-level hay storage with a solid floor, such as in a bank barn converted from dairy operations to horse barn, is preferable to stall-level storage because heat, smoke, and flame move upward.  Should a fire begin on the upper level, upward movement of the fire and its products will allow a few more minutes for evacuation of horses from the lower level. 
A horse owner wrote in an internet group, “I heard someone describe classic haylofts as being an equivalent to a gas tank, in that if your barn catches on fire, the air is trapped in that space and the dry hay/bags of shavings, etc. which are fuel to the fire can cause the building to explode.” 
      My reply was, “As for haylofts, there are several schools of thought, but the important point here is to get well-cured hay and to keep loose hay swept up.  The best barn I ever had was constructed of concrete block on the main (first floor) level with the second floor (hayloft) completely closed off from the lower level.  There were hay drops for each stall and each hay drop had a hinged cover that was kept closed except when hay flakes were dropped into each stall.  The stairway to the hayloft was in the tack room.
      “Unless there is a strong draft directing flame into another pattern, fire burns up because hot gases and flames are lighter than air.  If hay in a loft that’s closed off to the lower level burns, it will burn through the roof first.  Also—regarding classic haylofts being like a gas tank—not true.  The only time that might be possible is if a barn has a slate roof which would take some time to fail.  Barns with metal or tin sheet roofs, asphalt shingles over wood, or plastic skylight panels, will be breached by the fire allowing hot gases and flames to vent.  The explosion that your informant may be referring to is a flashover.  This occurs when flammables in an enclosed area reach their ignition temperatures and flame breaks out over the whole surface at once.  This is different than a backdraft, which is what happens when oxygen is introduced into an unventilated area resulting in an explosion of heated gases.  That's one reason why all barn roofs should have a means of ventilation such as a cupola or regular roof vents.”
      If hay is stored at stall-level, the area must be completely separated from the stalls and enclosed in a room with two-hour fire-resistant roofing and wall materials.  This isn’t a practical solution to begin with unless you are purchasing and storing hay for only two or three horses and you purchase hay frequently.  In reality, though, no one wants to be lugging hay bales a distance of 100 feet from one building to another on a daily basis, so many people keep a day or two’s supply of hay near the stalls in their barn.  That’s not ideal, but it is kind of practical when you consider the labor involved in caring for horses on a day-to-day basis. 
      But let’s say you’re in the fortunate situation of building a separate hay barn; your first consideration must be the location of the hay barn in relation to other structures.  If you have the room, a 100-foot separation is ideal.  This provides protection for other buildings from wind conditions and heat radiation in the event of a fire.  With a 20 mph wind, sparks can be carried some distance, such as what happens in wildfires where the flames jump fire lines.  Heat radiation is another way fires spread, and 50-100 feet is not a great distance where radiation is involved.  The heat can be great enough to dry out adjacent structures and allow them to ignite.  So, if you can afford a separate hay barn, don’t build it too close to your other buildings because if it’s too close you risk losing your other buildings as well.
And speaking of saving buildings: it’s very unlikely that if your hay barn catches fire that it can be saved.  If there are no animals or humans in the building to be rescued, you may find the fire department handling fire suppression in one of several ways, depending on the situation and the necessity to save nearby buildings from catching fire.  Mike Weider, senior editor at IFSTA/Fire Protection Publications in Stillwater, Oklahoma explained that from a firefighting aspect in his excellent article “Hay Barn Fires” published in the April 1998 issue of Firehouse, which follows this section.

CONTINUED

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